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D1PP1N

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D1PP1N
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  • Rival Acoustics

    kennyk said:
    That's why I take xo parts. They always show up in diy builds.  :3
    Same grabbed some caos one year and resistors the other year. The resisters are awesome their like 18w ones. 
    kennyk
  • Cnc talk

    Its been awhile since ive posted any updates. Ive been using the machine alot and trying to come up with a more efficient shop. Trying to open up some floor space or limit unnecessary items. I have a pc cart for my cnc that works but its not ideal. Im going to need to put my table saw and outfeed table close to where it sits now  (gotta cut the outfeed table/router table combo still). I bought a wall mount laptop and monitor stand. I will mount my pc above this on the wall above it or below it i havent decided yet. I added a network drop and cable line, i added 2 more breakers to my sub panel, mounted a board on the wall to accommodate the wall mount stuff and now i can run other tools while my cnc is going. So it helped alot.  

    I got most of the 3 flat packs for my next builds mostly assembled and i tried a few different techniques for dadoes and locations. One major problem that i didnt anticipate was the different sizes of mdf. I bought 7 4x8 sheets of mdf a few jobs i had and my personal stuff and the difference in thickness was 0.700" to 0.760" this caused me alot if headaches and rework. (Mainly just needed to make the individual panels that were messed up and carve run the modified file again) not the end of the world but super super annoying. 


    kennykR-Carpenter
  • Cracked cabinets

    I scrape glue off with a razor, chisel or card scraper. 
    jhollander
  • My new tube preamp build

    Kornbread said:
       While we're on the subject, my sliding compound miter has never made a perfect 90* cut.  It's just enough off to be a problem. The longer the cut, the worse the problem.  Is there a way to true these things up, or is being a little off, to be expected?     
    Ive been using this with success to calibrate my (90deg) stops or the zero on my tablesaw. It works for all angles. In increments of like 0.1 i think. 

     Calculated Industries 7434 AccuMASTER 2-in 1 Magnetic Digital Level and Angle Finder / Inclinometer / Bevel Gauge, Latest MEMs Technology, Certified IP54 Dust and Water Resistant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0148M7P4O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_62zbAbK0V3NQY ;

    You put it on the tabletop of your tablesaw or miter saw and "zero" it. Then put it on your blade and set it to whatever angle you want. You would be surprised how many times your off by 1 deg. 

    Just some random tips but if you cut a 45 cut one edge on the left of the blade and the other on the right side it should always add up to 90 again even if your off. 

    The trouble with compound miter saws is that they always have flex when they are fully extended out. You can pull it outward all the way and apply sligjt pressure in either left or right direction and watch it deflect a little. I try to start the saw in the fully inward position and when you extend it outward try to use a soft touch so you dont apply pressure to one side and proceed with the cut. 
    Bryan@MAC
  • Cnc talk

    Cnc is leveled, trammed and surfaced. Im still having issues with soft limits settings at times when i try to zero the z-axis, i just take off soft limits and it goes away. Its a really odd issue but at tjos point the machine is up and running. I made some clamps and got my first 3 customers. Its been a long process to say the least. Now i need to figure out all the tricks!


    Tabs suck with plywood btw. Mdf is not too bad but ply splits easily with tabs when i used my chisel. 
    kennykNicholas_23