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Caulk or construction adhesive?

I'm assembling 3 test flat packs and they are nearly all glued up with no nails. Takes a little longer clampingbut less work to cover up holes in the long run. I am thinking i want to run a bead of caulk/adhesive along every joint on the inside for the overkill factor. They are all dadoed so its not really needed but i was wondering what everyone recommends. Construction adhesive seems like it would be quite good for this task but maybe latex caulk could remain more elastic but adhere well. Dont want to build green glue due to the price. At some point ill probably just start spraying duratex on the inside. I have some of their sound deadening compound but its akward to use in tight places. 

Im going to also spray shellac on the inside and outside of the cabinets to seal them up. 

If you could recommend a type and brand you like or prefer it would be appreciated.

Comments

  • I only use a bead of glue at the joints. Would like to know if caulk would help.
    ............. could you hum a few bars.
  • Yeh i only use wood glue then run a bead if there isnt squeeze out at the corners inside of the box. I dont want to use caulk instead of glue but use caulk at the corners and around braces.maybe it would reduce resonance a few % or something. Maybe it wont do anything but make me feel like i did more than i needed too. 
  • edited February 2018
    I always end up applying too much yellow wood glue when assembling so I get lots of squeeze out.  I usually take a barely damp rag and wipe off the big runs then use my finger to form a fillet around every inside joint.  My table saw makes such straight and square cuts that I've never felt any need to caulk the joints.  Now back 30 years ago when I was building car stereo sub boxes with a hand circular saw... yeah I caulked those with Dap latex bathroom caulk   :#
  • I'll use the paintable caulk on the inside of mid boxes that tie into the sides and front baffle
     John H, btw forum has decided I don't get emails
  • If you want fool-proof, get some Red-Guard (sp) from HD. Pour a bit in the cab's, and coat the inside. Ed Froste swore by the stuff for sealing the insides. I believe it was about $30/gal.
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