ive switched to all water based products. My ceiling is completely sealed off in my garage so i need to go through the wall or into the attic. I could mount jt on the wall or ceiling with a bracket. My neighbor built a box around his with a few air filters.
So you did do the hivi RT1.3s, hope you like them.
Having never heard them I went soley on yours and Wolf's recommendations. Well that and I have used and heard several other planar tweeters (my Trials project, Wolf's Stances, Scott's Matrix, etc) and really like how those sound.
Thanks! I am very pleased with how they turned out. After the last coat of clear lacquer they were very shiny. Too shiny actually. It made them look kinda fake, like they were plastic. So I softened them up a bit with 0000 steel wool, then applied a coat of paste wax with a white Scotebrite pad. I like that after buffing off the wax they are still shiny, just softer and more real looking. They feel silky smooth when you run your hand over them.
I just need to apply one more coat of black Duratex (DIY Iowa door prize) on the old enclosures, then I can assemble them and start taking in-box measuresments for the xo design. That's the part of speaker building I really enjoy.
Speaking of which, I think it's awesome that CSS is selling flat packs and that Mike C. and Roman offer CNC baffle work. Cutting up MDF and routering baffles is starting to get a little long in the tooth for me. But I almost feel like buying flat pack enclosures or paying for CNC'd baffles would be like having an extra marital affair behind my table saw and router's back... LOL
Very nice work on the baffles - how did you do all the milling without getting any burn marks? I always get a few burns which spoils the cosmetics.
Your router speed is too high and if possible prepare yourself so you can make a single continuous feedrate without stopping the material. Then touch up with sand paper.
Np, learned most from Bryan. I added to shellac base coat to help save duratex and allow you to put on a thinner coat. Like if i do regular 2 coats is super thick and rough. With shellac and a little dillution i can do 3 or 4 coats very thin and smash them down so its more like 600 grit instead of 60 grit!
Np, learned most from Bryan. I added to shellac base coat to help save duratex and allow you to put on a thinner coat. Like if i do regular 2 coats is super thick and rough. With shellac and a little dillution i can do 3 or 4 coats very thin and smash them down so its more like 600 grit instead of 60 grit!
That 320 grit probably saved me from making a wall hanger out of the guitar build Im doing. It was a happy mistake on my part , the 220 was too aggressive for the grain filler I was using .
Craig wanted the duratex more smooth than the standard coarse roller.
1) Buy the fine foam paint rollers from menards (8 for $10) or harbor freight has 4 packs of worse quality ones)
2) dilute duratex with water and mix thoroughly
3) use foam roller to shellac cabinets (2-3coats) sand smooth if its not smooth. I just dunk the roller in the sealcoat shellac. Be quick you can apply liberally and spread it but finish with smooth full length strokes if it gets sticky its drying stop rolling that area. You can let it dry or dunk the roller again and fix the area.
4) i use 2 paper plates for duratex or other finishes i put the duratex on the plate and get some on the roller and use the 2nd new plate to roll it out and get even coat on the foam roller so it doesnt blotch.
5) apply duratex and try to keep it to lighter coats you will be able to see the cabinet underneath the first coat or two. I try to do 3 light coats.
6) in between these 2-3 coats have a 2nd roller prepped with a new roller. Use this roller to matte the finish down. If you time it right it will smash the finish down and barely leave any on the roller.
Just the roll on version i havent tried the spray grade yet. I dont measure the amount of water i just eye ball it. It doesnt get wattery its still thick but i pour some out and just splash some water on it and mix until it gets a little thinner.
I listened to the prototype crossovers last night for about an hour and another listening session today for about 40 minutes. I'm really really close... stuck between two different padding resistor values on the tweeters. I really like the air and detail with the smaller resistor but there are a number of tracks where it's a tiny bit too much and the larger value would be easier to live with. Decisions!
Also my prototypes were constructed with various cheap caps paralleled together to achieve desired values. Same with some series'd together resistors. So I just placed an order from PE for the correct valued Audyn Q4 caps and Mills resistors.
It was the PA speakers that got the 15's banned. The purple ones I blamed on PE. Both are still in the storage room, not likely to see daylight any time soon.
Kind of unfortunate because I did fix the PA speaker's x-o. I thought I had Scott S. talked into taking the Purple ones, maybe he was just being nice.
Hi Don, I've been listening to these for the last two weeks. I love them, they are fantastic woofers with excellent midrange! I just finished voicing the crossovers for my 2 ways using these and the HiVi planars. I couldn't be happier. Craig
Comments
I always get a few burns which spoils the cosmetics.
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
I just need to apply one more coat of black Duratex (DIY Iowa door prize) on the old enclosures, then I can assemble them and start taking in-box measuresments for the xo design. That's the part of speaker building I really enjoy.
Speaking of which, I think it's awesome that CSS is selling flat packs and that Mike C. and Roman offer CNC baffle work. Cutting up MDF and routering baffles is starting to get a little long in the tooth for me. But I almost feel like buying flat pack enclosures or paying for CNC'd baffles would be like having an extra marital affair behind my table saw and router's back... LOL
Your router speed is too high and if possible prepare yourself so you can make a single continuous feedrate without stopping the material. Then touch up with sand paper.
Craig wanted the duratex more smooth than the standard coarse roller.
1) Buy the fine foam paint rollers from menards (8 for $10) or harbor freight has 4 packs of worse quality ones)
2) dilute duratex with water and mix thoroughly
3) use foam roller to shellac cabinets (2-3coats) sand smooth if its not smooth. I just dunk the roller in the sealcoat shellac. Be quick you can apply liberally and spread it but finish with smooth full length strokes if it gets sticky its drying stop rolling that area. You can let it dry or dunk the roller again and fix the area.
4) i use 2 paper plates for duratex or other finishes i put the duratex on the plate and get some on the roller and use the 2nd new plate to roll it out and get even coat on the foam roller so it doesnt blotch.
5) apply duratex and try to keep it to lighter coats you will be able to see the cabinet underneath the first coat or two. I try to do 3 light coats.
6) in between these 2-3 coats have a 2nd roller prepped with a new roller. Use this roller to matte the finish down. If you time it right it will smash the finish down and barely leave any on the roller.
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/1-12-gallon-gravity-feed-texture-air-spray-gun-60314.html
I painted the surface first with duratext and brush and smooth roller. That was on my wide body PA speaker.
InDIYana Event Website
Wolfy's Photobucket
Kind of unfortunate because I did fix the PA speaker's x-o. I thought I had Scott S. talked into taking the Purple ones, maybe he was just being nice.
I've been listening to these for the last two weeks. I love them, they are fantastic woofers with excellent midrange! I just finished voicing the crossovers for my 2 ways using these and the HiVi planars. I couldn't be happier.
Craig