Subwoofer Modeling

greywarden

I'm tired of my little Wallyworld 2.1 Speaker setup that doubles as my home theater system, since I don't really have a large space atm. So I drop in on P-E and go straight for the 18" RSS460 and start modeling, but I can't get anything I really like. A few hours later I make it to the GRS 10" subwoofer.

I've used this one before, in a sealed 1cf-ish box and it actually sounded great, it lives in Baltimore with the Harbingers powered by a TP3116 2.1 BT amp and is way overkill for the owner.

I want something that's going to hit 20Hz or lower, because I've tasted subsonic and I want more. Now I have a few questions about modeling subwoofers:

1. Since my current project focuses on Group Delay (Hz * ms < 400) I modeled that, and it works outstanding - as far as theoretical numbers are concerned. Has anyone built a speaker that observes that rule? How does it sound compared to something that doesn't?

2. Do you model with the intended low-pass crossover point implemented? With the speakers I'm building currently, I'm expecting to use a 40Hz low pass, but how do I know what is the correct slope and Q to use? (I currently have it set to LR4 @ 40Hz in WinISD)

3. With the GRS 10SW-4 in a 6cf box (about a 24" cube, which is enormous for a 10" I know) tuned to 23Hz, with the LR4 lowpass at 40Hz, I get ~18Hz and ~43Hz f3 points, 100W power handling (103dB max) and the group delay is well within the limits (but only before you add the low pass filter). Does that sound like decent design?

4. Finally, if the power handling is about 100W, should I go with a 100W plate amp, and if so, which one? The Yung or the Dayton? What's the real, if any, difference between the two?

TIA

JasonP

I have some thoughts on points 1-3, but right now let's discuss point 4. Just get a non-DSP INUKE1000 for 150$ and call it a day. Reliable, unlike plate amps (IME), and you might at worst have to swap the fan out for a silent model.

greywarden

JasonP said:

I have some thoughts on points 1-3, but right now let's discuss point 4. Just get a non-DSP INUKE1000 for 150$ and call it a day. Reliable, unlike plate amps (IME), and you might at worst have to swap the fan out for a silent model.

What is the extent of the DSP function in those amps? Is it like the MiniDSP, or more like simple crossovers?

D1PP1N

Its actually similar to the minidsp. You can store like 5-8 setups in there for different builds or to try different crossover points. I even had one with inverted polarity to switch back and fourth from to see if there was a difference. It has most of the features of the regular minidsp. I was also able to add a steep hp for my 12" dayton hf sub sealed so it stopped making oil can noises. Basically put a 24-48db roll off at 30 hz so everything below was alot quieter.