It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!
I wanted to build a portable boom box for work. I work in an engine test lab so the engines and emissions / supporting equipment is quite loud 80-89db in my console room. So i wanted something that would top out spl in the mid to upper 90's before breakup.
Build / design goals
Have a funny name haha! Really the goals were simple keep it under $150 total. Consume less benchtop / toolbox / desktop space (less that my milwaukee jobsite radio), improve SQ and low end. Lastly, hopefully impress people at work and get them into speakers.
Tang Band W3-2141 3" paper cone full range $33 each
Tang Band W5-1138SMF 5-1/4" Paper Sub $32
I upgraded the PSU to a 12v 5amp supply i had instead of the 12v 3amp it comes with. This amp was cheap price wise and appeared to have a ton of adjustability. It has tone controls for bass and treble on the L/R (-10 to +10 (probably not true)), a volume pot for L/R, a frequency cutoff for the sub and a seperate volume control for the sub. I have used the amp or gotten to measure any drivers at this point but im getting close. Perhaps i can get by without a crossover or just cutting the LF signal to it. Ill know soon if i can do that or not.
Lepai LP-168ha-21 (2x40w and 1x68 sub). ($28)
1.5" X 9" port (PVC) for sub port X1 qty
Everything from like 7" to 10" should work in this enclosure.
4" X 6" PVC enclosures for FR drivers X 2 qty
I recessed a 1/2 thick plywood insert in tbe back of the pipe and recessed it into the baffle by about a 1/4 inch. Its approximately 1 liter internal volume.
Approx 12 liter enclosure. (1liter for each driver, so approx 2 liters total + the 1/4" thick pvc sealed) and that leaves 9-10 liters for the sub (minus the external dimensions of the 1 liter cabinets with are 1/4" thick pvc. Its roughly 17wx8.5hx8.5d
Current minor holdup:
I'm currently looking for a more elegant way to install binding posts or something because I need to run 3 pairs of wires through the back of the cabinet. My thoughts are using a piece of plexi glass and just route out enough meat of the cabinet to have that I can attach binding posts (I have a ton of binding posts but they are like a bit less that 1/2 thick or something so they can't get through 3/4" thick mdf. I could disassemble them and use a forstner to rebate them into the cabinet by like 1/2 or something. here are the binding posts I have http://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-dual-binding-post-1-red-1-black--090-475
Lastly I bought this to wire them but I doubt I will use it. It says it's 14 AWG but there is no way it is that 14, I got both 14ga and 16ga but the 16 seems like 20ga or 22ga and the 14ga seems like 18ga at best. For this power level maybe it's not necessary to use legit 16 or 14gauge but I have extra so maybe ill use it instead.
Ill get pics uploaded tonight after work.